Tess Ultimate Solid Axle Swap Planning Thread Take 2

[Cheese]

I have been on part of the UA and worked on two of the rigs. It is an interesting goal.

Links and coilovers on a bodied truck are not getting the most out of any part of the equation.

Eric has done a lot of work to make the truck drivable and perform. Crazy flex or super travel may not actually help trail performance.

Lots of work goes into make a truck that is linked on both ends and is still streetable.

This is inspiring me to re-up my Montypics to get my truck pictures up again.

[YotaFun]

I have been on part of the UA and worked on two of the rigs. It is an interesting goal.

I have always wanted to do it, just never really pursued it but the more I keep reading and looking and the places they go, it just seem like one of those things on the list of things to do before you die kinda deal.

Links and coilovers on a bodied truck are not getting the most out of any part of the equation.

Can you elaborate?

Eric has done a lot of work to make the truck drivable and perform. Crazy flex or super travel may not actually help trail performance.

Lots of work goes into make a truck that is linked on both ends and is still streetable.

But its possible lol!

This is inspiring me to re-up my Montypics to get my truck pictures up again.

Inspiration huh?

[Cheese]

On a full bodied truck, you have things like frame and body that limit where you put links and coilovers. You also have a heavy, bodied truck above the links and coilovers. On a tube car, the concessions are not as big because you can design around the optimal links.

Eric has an awesome truck, no doubt. He committed to making the thing work with swaybars and lots of homework, you're on your way with homework now.

[AxleIke]

On a full bodied truck, you have things like frame and body that limit where you put links and coilovers. You also have a heavy, bodied truck above the links and coilovers. On a tube car, the concessions are not as big because you can design around the optimal links.

Eric has an awesome truck, no doubt. He committed to making the thing work with swaybars and lots of homework, you're on your way with homework now.

x2.

If you look in those threads I posted, a common theme is that people design their link set up, and then have to go with a "as close as we can" actual fabrication.

To get amazing flex in the front, you will likely have to either go sky high with the truck, which would mean redoing your rear, or stay low and go through the fenders/hood.

The compromises around the body/frame also mean that you can end up with increased dive, and roll/bumpsteer. Not a big deal on a trailered rock rig, but on a street driven truck, it can be an issue, especially at speed.

One other think to consider is that with a 4link, you can end up with designs that mean removing the front suspension in order to do transmission/transfercase work.

Personally, I think this is an awesome idea, and look forward to the result. I like unique trucks, something very few others have. And as Cheese points out, its all about the homework. Getting a solid understanding of link design and performance will keep you from being frustrated and spending un-needed cash when the time comes to swap. I wish I had done more homework before I started.

[corax]

found this to get you started -> front hi-pinion e-locker (though I think they might be asking a bit much)

[AxleIke]

Yeah, thats a bit high.

You can get a whole complete axle housing for 900 around here. Someone I saw recently got a heckuva deal, but I don't know where they were at.

Just FYI, the elockers are slow to lock/unlock. Great for a rear, but an ARB is better in the front. If you get a deal on an elocker, then for sure get it. But for the coin they're asking in that ad, I'd just get an ARB. Cost is 700, plus 150 for a compressor=same price.

[YotaFun]

Eric has an awesome truck, no doubt. He committed to making the thing work with swaybars and lots of homework, you're on your way with homework now.

That why I wanted to discuss, I read but I am sure I have probably missed a few things here and there.

I am wondering if I could run the ARB off the York compressor I will be installing...

[Cebby]

I am wondering if I could run the ARB off the York compressor I will be installing...

Yes. You can run it off of a Powertank if you wanted to. Any air source will do.

[AxleIke]

ARB air pressure range is 85-105 psi. 90-95 is about the sweet spot.

[YotaFun]

After reading and cooling my head down drastically and really realizing that I want to do this right.
I think I am going to go with a diamond axle.
Still going to go with e-locked FJ80 internals.

Probably will do the same in the rear eventually.

So I guess I would still source the FJ80 axle for the internals.

For now I am just going to build up the rest of her for expedition travel till then, since I might be getting another project after I see a certain one ;-)