E Locker motor repair

[YotaFun]

So I am finally getting around to doing this on my spare locker motor since the one in there has been kind of getting stuck lately.

The current one I am working on is the double spring find mesh gear style.

The motor and magnets portion of the locker was beautiful, no corrosion what so ever.

It wasn't till I got the rest of the case open where I found the issue.
The main case either got filled with water through the breather tube or the o-ring between the two failed.

I have it all taken apart and am starting to clean everything (have the springs soaking in PB blaster right now)

However I notices that the shaft that turns the tiny gear that moves the fork seized, trying to figure out a way to possibly get that out and clean that opening, right now I have it soaking as well and have got it to wiggle back and forth a little bit but no much luck.

[Seanz0rz]

apply some heat with a torch if you can. thermal cycling will help to break up the rust bonds.

[YotaFun]

it actually pressed right out, got my little dremel brush out to start cleaning it out

[corax]

Well, it lasted about 3 years but finally started to fail on me. If anyone has a spare or has a line on one, even if it's just an intact housing or only good for parts, let me know. I need to figure something out before I realize how much I need it on the next search call-out.

[Seanz0rz]

you can always manually slide the locker spring actuator with a screw driver. not ideal, but works in a pinch.

[corax]

That works well to unlock it, but my current uses don't give me much time between asphalt and dirt to unbolt anything. The other problem with using a screwdriver to lock it is that the actuator has a spring to hold it into the locked position, without that slight pressure on the collar it can work itself partially or fully disengaged (less than full engagement can lead to breakage from concentrated stresses).

I took it off and cleaned the corrosion out again so it seems to be operational at this time, but with the "snout" broken off, it's just a matter of time till it fails again. All I really need is the plate that the snout is part of (bit that contacts the diff), the rest is still fine.

[YotaFun]

Keith, if I can't get you that motor, would it be possible to make a mold of the piece you need and find someone to do a metal cast of it?

[Seanz0rz]

or a CNC. Keith, PM me about it and we'll talk. might be able to get you one in the fall if you can wait that long.

[corax]

Keith, if I can't get you that motor, would it be possible to make a mold of the piece you need and find someone to do a metal cast of it?

or a CNC. Keith, PM me about it and we'll talk. might be able to get you one in the fall if you can wait that long.

I was thinking I might be able to do a version out of steel, or maybe even find someone to TIG the aluminum snout back onto the plate. The repair to the corroded hole is holding just fine, it's just the snout the won't stay epoxied on. There was also a thread on Pirate about a new cable conversion, but that was a bit pricier than a new actuator. I'll have to give it a few days thought and see what I come up with. For now it's working again