4x4mike's e-locker retrofit

[Obi..]

One thing that occured to me and maybe it's b/c I need to compare the non e-locked housing versus an equipped one is that usually Toyota is all about synergy. In other words, they do things ahead to make it easier later on. WHen the e-locker was released, why they didn't just begin to produce the housing as a single type unit, in other words, with the cutout already there and just make a block off plate piece for non equipped vehicles. That way should a dealership wish to do the upgrade it would have been a simple bolt-in affair. Then again, what do I know, right?

[Crinale]

that would have been possible if they even used the same axle... the elocker equipped axles are the same 8" v6 axles from the 2nd gen 4runners, while non e-locker axle is the same as the tacos... still an 8", but not compatible (sometimes mistakenly called the 8.25")

[2ndGen]

Taco's have leaf spings and 4R's have coil spings, so even the 3rd member housings are the same, the axle housing part are different between them at least on the spring perch part.

[Seanz0rz]

taco axle housings are not the same as 4runner axle housings, not to mention the bolt pattern on elocked 4runners is significantly different than the bolt pattern on a standard 8" third. there would be no way to interchange them with out creating a new non locked third. im guessing it was cheaper to make an elocker housing and either weld 4runner brackets or taco spring perches on it depending on application than it was to redesign the third for the entire 4runner line.

[4x4mike]

That is a good idea.
I botched mine when I did it and I am getting another one.
Once I get that one built correctly I am going to switch everything over, fix and build my old one so who ever gets it just needs to throw there third and shafts in bolt everything up and go.

How did you botch yours? Just interested so I know what to look for.

[YotaFun]

That is a good idea.
I botched mine when I did it and I am getting another one.
Once I get that one built correctly I am going to switch everything over, fix and build my old one so who ever gets it just needs to throw there third and shafts in bolt everything up and go.

How did you botch yours? Just interested so I know what to look for.

Having the axle in the truck on a lift instead of on the ground
and oh yeah....
REMEMBER YOUR E-LOCKER GASKET!!!

Even though you will be using RTV, for the love of god have your gasket as a template.
I didn't and kind eye'd the hole, they came out "ok" but in the end its a *&%^^% to get in and out and some studs are coming out (didn't have the propper tap on me either wow I feel like a dumb ^%$# for that....)

So just make sure you have everything you need, make sure you have all measurments out.
I know guys have mentioned that it still doesn't always come out perfect, but i figure if I have an axle on the side to work with, all I will really need to do is make sure I have everything cut and drilled straight.

By any chance you change the seal while you were in there with that new axle, might want to do that just since you have it apart, the seals are only like $7 a piece from napa....

[slosurfer]

^^^Hey, didn't I send you an elocker gasket to use or am I thinking of someone else?

[4x4mike]

I thought the drilling and tapping would be the easy part. I've pretty much done everything else. I plan on changing the inner axle seals as well. I like the Napa ones more than the Toyota ones. The fit is snugger, there is a little labyrinth seal and the cage is coated in a loctite kind of material.

[Robinhood4x4]

The drilling and tapping is the precision part, thus the reason I don't like to use the gasket as the template. There's too much flex in the gasket and the holes are bigger than the hole you need to drill. It's hard to get find the center of the hole without eyeballing it. Plus, unless you put it on a drill press and make sure the drill bit is square to your surface, it's hard to get the drill bit lined up right. If the drill goes in crooked, then the stud will be crooked and you have to force the 3rd member over the stud.

[slosurfer]

The drilling and tapping is the precision part, thus the reason I don't like to use the gasket as the template. There's too much flex in the gasket and the holes are bigger than the hole you need to drill. It's hard to get find the center of the hole without eyeballing it. Plus, unless you put it on a drill press and make sure the drill bit is square to your surface, it's hard to get the drill bit lined up right. If the drill goes in crooked, then the stud will be crooked and you have to force the 3rd member over the stud.

Correct! I used the gasket for the notches that need to be widened and for knowing how much metal to add in that one spot. Then I used the third to mark the holes to be drilled/tapped. Still got them slightly crooked though. I think I drilled them with the third on and still got them slightly crooked, not a big deal on the shorter one, but the long stud was more of a PITA. I'm pretty sure when/if I ever go to remove the third, I may have to pull that stud to get it off. That being said, I've beat on it, and it hasn't leaked at all, so I'm happy.