sooo.... looks like i got low oil preasure

[troyboy162]

just got back from my three month buisness trip and the oil light began coming on almost instantly, but theres plenty of oil. its not on constantly and varies with engine rpm in that it often comes on when the engine comes back to idle. tthat rule is not sollide but i would say it turns on completly randomly

i read up about it and every where said to start with an oil change to rule out a failed or clogged oil filter. ----didnt work grrr

next up would be a faulty oil presure sensor "oil sender". btu mine seems to be on and off and not 100% random. i think failed ones are often stuck on.

after that is sludge on the oil intake down in the oil pan. this is pretty likly as the truck does seem to have sludge visable in the area under the filler cap.



anyone got advise for dropping the oil pan? i read you must remove the motor mounts and use a jack from underneaith to lift the motor up enough to clear the pan sliding out over the front diff.

ive also read that the oil pump is not very likle to be the probelm and they ushualy last longer then the motor

[YotaFun]

If you have sludge, that might be your cause.
A trick an old instructor of mine mentioned as thorwing some kerosene in the oil and run it for like 50 miles and then do another oil change or two to get all the kerosene and old sludge out.

Just my .02 and as far as replacing the pump, it's times like this you wish you had a sas'd runner or some front wheel drives lol!

[MTL_4runner]

Does sound like a sluge problem. Before you do anything radical, try draining the oil and running ATF in the motor at idle for 30 minutes and drain it. You'll be surprised how much junk comes out because ATF has a ton of detergents in it. Be sure to change the oil filter each time as well. I can't stress this enough...DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH ATF IN IT. You can repeat this again if the first flush doesn't shut off the oil light. After that fill it with a good low viscosity synthetic like Mobil 1 0W30 and see how that works for you.

[Scuba]

Welcome back Troy. I say try ^^ that advice first. And I'm pretty sure it's best to remove the front diff to get the pan out...

Sucks you have to fix this problem before you start on the rest of the mods..

[YotaFun]

Does sound like a sluge problem. Before you do anything radical, try draining the oil and running ATF in the motor at idle for 30 minutes and drain it. You'll be surprised how much junk comes out because ATF has a ton of detergents in it. Be sure to change the oil filter each time as well. I can't stress this enough...DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH ATF IN IT. You can repeat this again if the first flush doesn't shut off the oil light. After that fill it with a good low viscosity synthetic like Mobil 1 0W30 and see how that works for you.

I forgot about the ATF!!!

[troyboy162]

well things will get interesting in the morning. i will try my darndest to get that oil pan off, but i think i may be just using a atf flush or a 5 minute harsh flush followed with a few oil changes. i dont trust driving the truck anywhere anymore even though its really been running fine.

game plan is going to look something like this:

-try like hell to figure out how to remove the oil pan without spending all day removing the front diff....
-stock up on trash oil to flush out the motor
-hit it with a quart of ATF or a harsh flush like gum out and then follow that up with a couple oil changes.

im thinking the flushing of the motor with my high miles and aparent sludge problem is going to be risky but a solution is needed as the truck is unable to drive in its current state. i also think it was the Casrol GTX oil that loosened up enough sludge to clog the oil pick up screen. ive read in alot of spots where that oil has the most cleaning aditives you can get.

Welcome back Troy. I say try ^^ that advice first. And I'm pretty sure it's best to remove the front diff to get the pan out...

Sucks you have to fix this problem before you start on the rest of the mods..

yea tell me about it. we had to take Kimis truck out exploring today....2wd f-150....shamefull!...my truck is so depressed lol

[Seanz0rz]

are you still running 20w50 in it? its a great oil to run in the summer (especially in the desert when ground temps are well above 120) but i would stay away from it in the winter months.

also, you can run seafoam through the oil. i would follow the directions on the can. i believe its something like add, run for x miles, drain and refill.

[Scuba]

Welcome back Troy. I say try ^^ that advice first. And I'm pretty sure it's best to remove the front diff to get the pan out...

Sucks you have to fix this problem before you start on the rest of the mods..

yea tell me about it. we had to take Kimis truck out exploring today....2wd f-150....shamefull!...my truck is so depressed lol

Hey thanks for the invite
Lol where did you go ?
And let me know soon what date's you want to have a wrench fest (if you still want too) so that I can request the days off of work.

[troyboy162]

Hey thanks for the invite
Lol where did you go ?
And let me know soon what date's you want to have a wrench fest (if you still want too) so that I can request the days off of work.

we just went out to lester dale. it was actualy a let down. we thought it was an old mining camp but the buildings seemed to have pretty modern materials in them. still interesting but nothing id write home about considering there are no tunnels there and the pipes supplying the fountain are all busted




wrenching day has been canceled. i contacted that diff shop to do my locker, UCA, lowr ball joints, and put the springs on my shocks. the thought of spending that money gave me bitter beer face but when im only in the states for as little as 2 months...i couldnt risk 3 possible weekends messing around. i do apreshiate the offer though!

[troyboy162]

are you still running 20w50 in it? its a great oil to run in the summer (especially in the desert when ground temps are well above 120) but i would stay away from it in the winter months.

also, you can run seafoam through the oil. i would follow the directions on the can. i believe its something like add, run for x miles, drain and refill.

yes i am using the 20w50 still. with afternoon temps in the 50's i figured it was ok. i ran that same oil all last winter too without an issue. that oil weirded me out when the guy i bought it off of recomended it, but as ive read its not a bad idea on high milage engines with increases(worn) clearences. oil preasue should be higher too as a result of its thikcness with all things equal.
i do have some seafoam here in the house i had forgoten about. that stuff should be close to the kerosen/diesl that people recomend.