paddlenbike's 2000 4Runner

[paddlenbike]

Maintenance Time guys. Last year I replaced the driver's side CV boots and now the passenger side outer is leaking, so that needs to be addressed. I also recently replaced the MAF with a new one. Acceleration wasn't quite as strong as before and I noticed leaner fuel mixtures on the wideband and and a reoccurring CEL P0171 lean bank code. I think the original MAF had simply been cleaned too many times and was no longer reading accurately. I took a gamble on a Denso MAF on Amazon ($67 vs twice that at Toyota) and it appears to be a completely legit product. Power is restored and it will easily chirp the tires going into 2nd gear.

It's time to do the full maintenance sweep on this thing. We currently sit at 160k. Here's what I'm thinking:
-Lube u-joints
-Drain & refill front & rear diff fluids, transmission and xfer case (Redline synthetic)
-Replace rear diff breather (it's original)
-Flush clutch fluid (that third pedal on the far left for those unfamiliar)
-Flush brake fluid
-Flush power steering fluid (it's original) How should I do this? Suck it out with a turkey baster and slowly replace?
-Flush coolant

Engine-Related:
-Replace timing belt (it's original) Do I need new idlers/tensioners?
-Replace water pump (it's original)
--> Should I do valve cover gaskets and cam shaft eccentrics? (original and not leaking)
-Replace spark plugs
-Replace spark plug wires (they are original)
-Replace PCV valve & grommet (it's original)
-Replace upper and lower radiator hoses
-Replace drive belts (AC, PS, alt, supercharger)

Other:
-The supercharger gets furry around the nosedrive. Thinking I should at least top it off with SC fluid to not risk running it dry. I understand the nose cone typically needs to be replaced around 100k and I think I'm at half that. It's quiet, so I won't do that yet.
-The positive battery cable/lug looks brittle. Thinking I should replace it.
-Is there any good reason to have the fuel injectors balanced/cleaned while I'm in there? Adds cost and takes it out of service for at least a week. I seem to remember Bob had an issue with this?

Otherwise, the thing runs super smooth, has great performance and you could practically eat off the motor--no leaks other than the slightly furry SC nose cone.

Any other maintenance items I'm missing? Ball joints were replaced not long ago, fuel filter is reasonably fresh. Brakes and suspension are all in very good shape. I'm not looking to do unnecessary stuff but while I have it apart I want to address common maintenance items on a 20-year old truck.

[YotaFun]

I think you have everything covered.

For power steering fluid I would do the turkey baster method for the cleaner side of the repair, or you could pull the lines off the rack itself, little more messy, but you can get more fluid out that way.
On the coolant I use the aftermarket Toyota red, just easier to get access too, and usually cheaper.

RockAuto has an AISIN Timing belt kit that comes with the belt, water pump, water pump gasket, tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley Part#TKT025. Or they have a kit without the tensioner part# TKT005, that is personal preference. I try to avoid replacing the tensioner just because it is a pain to do (Remove A/C Compressor). I would do the idler pulley and tensioner pulley while you are in there. I use this kit to save on the wallet, I do most of my shopping off RockAuto since you can get most OEM parts for much cheaper, Both Denso and NGK, and for stuff stuff that is not listed I try to research and use brands that are reputable, so far I have not had any issues.

If you have time, while your in there you could replace the valve cover gaskets as well.

For the battery terminals, I switched to marine battery terminals. The positive side is easy, the negative side you would have to cut off the factory end and crimp on a new lug which I feel its a better connection.

If you aren't experiencing a miss or significant loss in power, I would recommend leaving the injectors alone.

I am jealous, 160K, I forgot what it is like to drive a 4Runner with less then 200k lol!

[slomatt]

When I flushed my power steering fluid I used a baster to pull most of the dirty fluid out of the reservoir, re-filled it with clean fluid, and then pulled the return line off the reservoir and used the pump to to transfer the rest of old fluid into a jug (keeping the reservoir topped up of course). This was easy and didn't make a big mess.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ing-flush.html

For the timing belt I purchased a kit on eBay from aircabinman. These are well reviewed online and use both genuine and OEM parts.

Both my outer CV boots split at the same time, and I wanted to keep the factory CVs since they are supposedly stronger than the after market options. When I pulled out the shafts I found that the inner boots were also about to fail, so I ended up replacing all 4 with the softer and stronger boots from Off Road Solutions. I had a hard time getting the included band clamps to work so I ended up purchasing some nice stainless steel ones from McMaster Carr (part #5574K24).
https://www.offroadsolutions.com/pro...ement-cv-boot/

When I changed my lower ball joints I did the outer TREs as a preventative measure since I was already in there. If yours are still tight there's probably no need to change them now.

Have you checked the u-joints in your driveline? On my truck the one that couples to the rear differential got sticky and I replaced it when trying to track down a vibration at 60mph, but in retrospect it was probably fine.

If you don't have any leaks from the valve cover gasket I wouldn't mess with it. Mine has had a slight seep at the rear near the firewall for years, and other than a slight oil burning smell on startup if I haven't driven it in a long time it hasn't been an issue (no drips on the ground).

Otherwise, your list sounds pretty complete to me. There's not a lot that seems to commonly fail on these trucks. The only other things that come to mind are:
- Check your rear axle seals to make sure they aren't leaking.
- How's the condition of your clutch pedal bushings? I ended up replacing mine with nylon ones which have held up great.
- How are the bushings on your hatch lift struts? These commonly fail and cause metal on metal contact. Nylon bushings are a good replacement here also.
- Any issues with your door locks not working on hot days? Motors tend to go out on these.
- Have you cleaned and/or replaced the IACV?

[paddlenbike]

RockAuto has an AISIN Timing belt kit that comes with the belt, water pump, water pump gasket, tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley Part#TKT025. Or they have a kit without the tensioner part# TKT005, that is personal preference. I try to avoid replacing the tensioner just because it is a pain to do (Remove A/C Compressor).

GREAT info, thanks Avi. Amazon has TKT005 for $163 and TKT025 for $179. Super reasonable for those parts. I'll probably buy the one with the tensioner since it's only a few bucks more and decide whether or not to do it when I get in there. (I'm guessing I will.) Here's what someone had to say on an Amazon review:

"Bought this kit for my 1996 Toyota T100 4x4. Excellent quality! Does not come with a thermostat, I added a Toyota one to the cart. Comes with instructions that are pretty good. There are good videos out there that are more helpful. This 5vz-fe engine is friendly to backyard mechanics. I was able to remove and install the tensioner without removing the A/C bracket, checkout the how to videos for this time saving method. First time replacing timing belt/water pump myself, took me 7 hours. Removing crank bolt and crank pulley is the toughest part of the job."

If you have time, while your in there you could replace the valve cover gaskets as well.

I'll add that to the list.

For the battery terminals, I switched to marine battery terminals. The positive side is easy, the negative side you would have to cut off the factory end and crimp on a new lug which I feel its a better connection.

I have a heavy gauge lug crimper from the van project, but what terminals do you recommend?

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it!

[paddlenbike]

When I flushed my power steering fluid I used a baster to pull most of the dirty fluid out of the reservoir, re-filled it with clean fluid, and then pulled the return line off the reservoir and used the pump to to transfer the rest of old fluid into a jug (keeping the reservoir topped up of course). This was easy and didn't make a big mess.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ing-flush.html

Looks like a good process, thanks!


As for the CV boots, I did the driver's side with OEM parts last year and already have the OEM kit for the passenger side on-hand. I figured the originals lasted 19 years (14 years of which it has been lifted).

Have you checked the u-joints in your driveline? On my truck the one that couples to the rear differential got sticky and I replaced it when trying to track down a vibration at 60mph, but in retrospect it was probably fine.

I have not checked them but the truck drives great. I lost some wheel weights and need a tire rebalance, which I will address soon as part of this maintenance sweep. There aren't any driveline issues that I know of.

Otherwise, your list sounds pretty complete to me. There's not a lot that seems to commonly fail on these trucks. The only other things that come to mind are:
- Check your rear axle seals to make sure they aren't leaking.
- How's the condition of your clutch pedal bushings? I ended up replacing mine with nylon ones which have held up great.
- How are the bushings on your hatch lift struts? These commonly fail and cause metal on metal contact. Nylon bushings are a good replacement here also.
- Any issues with your door locks not working on hot days? Motors tend to go out on these.
- Have you cleaned and/or replaced the IACV?

Rear axle seals are not leaking. It seems to be only the non-locking diff versions that have that problem. I am replacing the rear breather as preventative though.
I'll look at the clutch pedal bushing, thanks for the reminder.
As for the lift hatch bushings, found a good mod for a Strong-arm replacement strut and a diy bushing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFJrKn7uT4c
Never had a problem with doorlocks
IACV & TB were last cleaned in 2011 when I installed the SC. I'll clean those while in there.

Thanks guys, super helpful!

[YotaFun]

I have a heavy gauge lug crimper from the van project, but what terminals do you recommend?

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it!

I bought this kit off amazon and run them on almost all our vehicles (still have to upgrade the Matrix and Rav4).
https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Mar.../dp/B07NQLK321

[paddlenbike]

Maintenance sweep started today by replacing the passenger side CV boots. It went much smoother than the driver's side and for some reason I didn't fight with the tripod joint retaining clip this time-around.

I'll move on to the big timing belt job in a few weeks when my calendar clears out a bit. It'll take me that long to figure out all the parts I need and get them shipped to my house.

I'm pleasantly surprised by the online cost of Toyota parts. The OEM Toyota CV boot kit with inner and outer boots, the grease and all the clamps was only $55.78. I can only imagine what this simple job would have cost at Toyota. $450? More?

Happy Labor Day weekend! I started it off by, uh, laboring.

[Seanz0rz]

My experience is that Toyota will not reboot an axle, but sell you a new one.

I will look through my receipts and see what I bought for my timing belt job on the 4Runner. I replaced the radiator while I was in there, highly recommended!

[YotaFun]

Maintenance sweep started today by replacing the passenger side CV boots. It went much smoother than the driver's side and for some reason I didn't fight with the tripod joint retaining clip this time-around.

I'll move on to the big timing belt job in a few weeks when my calendar clears out a bit. It'll take me that long to figure out all the parts I need and get them shipped to my house.

I'm pleasantly surprised by the online cost of Toyota parts. The OEM Toyota CV boot kit with inner and outer boots, the grease and all the clamps was only $55.78. I can only imagine what this simple job would have cost at Toyota. $450? More?

Happy Labor Day weekend! I started it off by, uh, laboring.

I should have done some research before biting the bullet on the Berk/Arnley reboot kit, boots are great, the clamps not so much...

My experience is that Toyota will not reboot an axle, but sell you a new one.

I will look through my receipts and see what I bought for my timing belt job on the 4Runner. I replaced the radiator while I was in there, highly recommended!

Not 100% true. Depends on the dealer really. I rebooted axles all the time during my tenure at the dealer. It depends on the tech too, it saves the customer money rebooting.

[DHC6twinotter]

Back when I did my timing belt, I ordered the parts from eBay. I think it was the same guy that slomatt mentioned. The kit I bought included the tensioner and accessory belts. The tensioner wasn't too bad to replace. The AC compressor has to be taken off, but when I did it, I didn't take off the AC lines. I just unbolted the compressor and let it rest off to the side. One of the bolts is a pain to get to, but a ratcheting wrench would have done wonders here (I didn't have one at the time). I would replace the idler and tensioner pulleys, water pump, water pump gasket, thermostat, thermostat gasket, etc. All that came in the kit.

The front cam seals might be worth replacing while you are doing the timing belt. This is even easier if you plan on replacing the valve cover gaskets as well. The ebay kit came with cam seals.

Also, I can't remember if this was on my 2ng gen or my 3rd gen (maybe both?), but there is a beveled washer that sits in front of the crank gear that, according to the FSM, is supposed to be replaced when doing a timing belt. I think the crank bolt is supposed to be replaced too.

When doing the valve cover gaskets, I would also replace the rear cam plugs, as well as resealing the four half-moon aluminum plugs on the heads (one at either end of the exhaust cams). You might as well replace the spark plug tube gaskets as well (they are a pain to get out though).

Just my $.02.