should we modify the IFS bump stops?

[Scuba]

Scuba, I wish I had your courage..35's and LOCKED IFS.. You gotta goto a LT or SAS setup soon.

^^ Fixed ^^



Already collecting parts for a SAS swap with a yota axle and a passenger drop '85 transfer case.
Not having problems with the front end I just don't want to replace the crappy rack with another crappy rack.

[Crinale]

the guy u posted on the crack in moab sounds like he had a pretty sick front suspension setup (11 inches travel without going wider! thats only 2 inches less than my long travel). Doesnt sound like he has BJs (or at least not on the upper A-Arm). Oh, and i have stock bump stops on my 2nd gen.. but the rest of the suspension is slightly different :P

[Bighead]

Scuba...how many racks have you gone through so far?

[Scuba]

Scuba...how many racks have you gone through so far?

Still on the stock one at 150K, actually.
But, its leaking like a sieve at the moment and should be replaced soon.
But, screw that. I'm going to cut off the IFS and never worry about a rack again. Hydro Assist FTW.

[YotaFun]

Interesting idea.
Going to have to watch my suspension flex next weekend.
Honestly I never though I actually compressed the front enough to hit the bump stops, but now with the Adjustable coil-overs and All-Pro A-Arms I might just now.

I am on my second rack now and I think I am due for a 3rd....

I am with Scuba, after something else breaks on the front end (already lost both cvs and the front diff) I am getting the sawzall out and doing a swap.

[troyboy162]

it might give us some sweet performance or our t4r's might divide by zero lol. that guy in moab has his wheel center level with the bottom of his door. thats about 4 inches higher then my wheel in my picture. under normal conditions the best i can hope for is about the below pic. again its just on the bump and not able to compress it. but if i two wheel downhill i can get it to crush the bump stop. i think from steves pic the cv should be ok or at least not worse then when we droop.
so lets tally the issues here:
-ball joints being stressed in the oposite dirrection
-compressing shocks too far
-steering rack ball joints
-major fender/firewall mods for oversized tires
-no more bombing the fence line at pismo

heres about the limit during normal operations
[img width=800 height=535]http://www.ultimateyota.com/images/stories/featured_rig/0910_troyboy162/10sept-00.jpg[/img]

im teatering between three and two wheeling here and the lower control arm finaly shows sign of crushing the stop. still a long ways to go to match the runner at moab
[img width=800 height=600]http://www.ultimateyota.com/images/stories/featured_rig/0910_troyboy162/10sept-04.jpg[/img]

[Obi..]

Meh..just fork out the dough and get fenders to go with it and you'll be fine @ Pismo.

Ask Mr. Choat what his rig's travel #'s are? http://www.chaosfab.com/96000.php

[troyboy162]

haha yeah its always a trade off and when given the choice ill always lean towards rock performance for as little money as possible.

[troyboy162]

Ric,

what did you think about it? how different were your new bump stops. the picture dosnt show much extra uptravel but of course none of us except the moab picture have pic specific to stuffing the front tire under ideal conditions

[Crinale]

Troy, i think the lower ball joint isnt much of a problem, if you get upper a-arms with the Uniballs (like all-pro, TC, etc) you should be able to get the suspension to cycle more without worrying about binding the BJs.. as for steering, that can be a problem, but if it actually does become a problem just get a heimed steering made up Steve at DIRT Designs (formerly Akros Motorsports) will do it for a good price. And heims will take a lot greater angles and more abuse than BJ's do/will (im gonna have an all-heim steering made for my 4runner). Troy, you should copy the suspension on that moab pic.. would really kick ass in the rocks.